Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has always defined its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their children are unwilling to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to learn these stories and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
